THE LAST LONG DRIVE (Savannah Way 16)

This was going to be the longest and the last long drive along The Savannah Way or as it is sometimes called, "The Top Road." It stretches across the top of Australia from Cairns to Broome. In 2009 we travelled from Broome on the west coast to Darwin. This year I travelled from Cairns to Darwin. (see map). So now I have been the whole way across. This tme our last leg was from Ngukurr to Darwin, 658k.

 We set off early and came across some water buffalo.

 Once again there were many river crossings, no bridges just causeways.

 There were kapok trees along the road, with their pods full of kapok.

 After many miles we came to the little township of Mataranka. It has a population of 250. The area is famous for cattle and thermal pools. We stopped for morning tea and a quick swim.

 I didn't have time for a swim because I was too busy taking photos.

 Jeanie Gunn's autobiography, "We of the Never Never" was written about her life on Elsey Station near Mataranka. A movie was made of the story and they built a replica of the homestead for the movie. It still stands as a museum depicting those early days.

 After morning tea we drove on for miles and miles. We watched a DVD about John McDuall Stuart, a famous explorer, who found a way for the overland telegraph from Adelaide in the south to Darwin back in the 1800's. Finally, we arrived in Katherine for lunch and a group photo. There was a statue of a bushman in recognition of all the pioneers and cattlemen who helped develop Katherine. It is a larger town with 24.000 people living in the area, 60% are indigenous.

 We were a bit disappointed that we couldn't stay another night here because there are many things to do and see. Luckily, I did stay here on our last trip from the other side of the country. There is a beautiful big gorge, Nitmiluk. There are photos on my post here:

 After many more miles we were getting closer to Darwin. We stopped at Adelaide River War Cemetery for a leg stretch.

 This cemetery is for the people who were killed during sixty bombing raids on Darwin by the Japanese in World War 11. They were mostly RAAF service men but there were many civilians and nurses killed also.

 Finally we made it to Darwin and a very comfortable hotel room. It was a strange feeling to be back in civilisation after being in so much remote country.

I watched the beautiful sunset over Darwin Harbour while getting ready for our final dinner with our new friends that we had made on the tour. However, the tour hadn't quite finished as there was a tour of Darwin scheduled for the last day. But it wasn't the last day for me. My friends, Ann and George had organised another few days touring, where we would end up on the bottom of Australia. 

THE RUINED CITY (Savannah Way 15)

On our trip across the top of Australia we stopped in the Aboriginal town of Ngukurr, which used to be a mission in Arnem Land. (see map)   Seven clans have joined together and run the council. They are endeavouring to create jobs and be self sufficient. They value education and there is a 95% attendance rate at the school. They all love sport and football especially. The town has a policy, 'no school, no sport' at any of the clubs. The kids love their sport so it is helping them keep going to school.

They also have an Art Centre. We stayed at the Art Centre while we waited for our turn to go for a helicopter trip to the 'Ruined City'. We watched some of the artists at work and then they cooked us damper and tea for morning tea on a camp fire. There are two sculptures in the background, a water buffalo and a crocodile. Inside the centre were hundreds of beautiful pieces of aboriginal art for sale.

 This time I had the front seat in the helicopter, there were no doors but we had seat belts.

  It was quite scary but fun when the pilot swooped down  closer to the water buffalo.

 We flew for 20 mins over Arnhem Land.

 Then we came to the most unusual rock formations, which resembled a ruined city. It is a special place for the aborigines called Baroonja. Visitors are only allowed to go there if accompanied by a family member of the owners of this area. There were miles and miles of these rocks and I took heaps of photos but too many to put here.

 The helicopter lands on top of one of the bigger rocks. The people, waiting for the return flight, looked so little and in the middle of nowhere.

 The guide loads the people to go back.

We were taken for a short walk around the rock that we were on. The different shapes and colours were amazing. It was also very hot there about 40°C. Our local guide was Walter the son of the elder who owns this area. It was the first time he has done the tour guide work for his family. He enjoyed the helicopter ride so much that he wants to become a pilot. He told us stories about the area.

 After 40 mins the helicopter was back to pick up us.

 Time to say goodbye to the 'Ruined City" or 'Baroonja"

We returned to Ngukurr nestled on top of the ridge not far from the Roper River but a long way from any other civilisation.

 That afternoon we were taken on a cruise on the Roper River with another local guide. We learnt about the interesting history of the river. Paddleboat steamers were a common site in the past originally to bring supplies to those building the overland telegraph system in the 1870's.

We saw many different birds and bats but no crocodiles (they were hiding).

LORELLA SPRINGS TO NGUKURR (Savannah Way 14)

From Lorella Springs we continued on our journey across the top of Australia to Ngukurr, an Aboriginal Community in Arnhem Land, NT. A 310k trip. (see map)   

We stopped at Butterfly Springs for morning tea. The early morning sun lit up the Paper Bark Trees. 

 We walked around the water hole into the bush.

 We came to a cliff face, the guide walked up to the wall and waved his arms madly. Suddenly the air was full of butterflies. There were hundreds and hundreds of Black Crow Butterflies. They were hard to photograph as they fluttered around in a panic.

 After a while they started to settle a little.

 Then they returned to the cliff wall. Can you see them?

 We drove on and on for miles and miles. We stopped for lunch near the Roper River. This is the river crossing. Can you see a group of children cooling off in the river. There are crocodiles in this river.

After a while they were walking along the road. We found out later that they should have been in school.

 There is a total ban on alcohol in Ngukurr and the community is quite industrious. They run this nice motel situated on the top of a ridge overlooking the great expanse of Arnhem Land.

From my spot on the balcony I could see our outdoor dining room and BBQ area. There was a proper kitchen attached to one of the accommodation blocks.

 Local caterers came in to cook dinner for us. They used local products. We had water buffalo sausages, prawn kebabs, crocodile kebabs and chicken. This was all cooked on the BBQ.

 Kangaroo stew

 Damper (type of bread) cooked in a camp oven.

Barramundi Fish

It was an idilic place to dine.

LORELLA SPRINGS, WILDERNESS PARK. (Savannah Way 13)

We left the camp at  Pungalina Station and bounced our way back on the rocky road to the Savannah Way or "The Top Road" as it is also called and drove for 456k to Lorella Springs. (see map). It is still a gravel road.

 We stopped for a picnic lunch near Robinson River and once again warned to watch out for crocodiles and to stay away from the edge of the water because crocs have a habit of sneaking along under water and then lunging themselves out of the water at lightening speed to catch their prey.

 That evening we arrived at Lorella Springs. We had a comfortable motel style room. The bar was a typical outdoor bush style. Lorella Springs is a one million acre cattle station stretching to the shores of the Gulf. The young owners, Rhett and Maria, have also developed it into a wilderness park with many activities such as hiking, 4 Wheel driving, camping, canoeing, bird watching, fishing and caving.

The dinning room was outside in the shade of a big tree and the food was delicious. May have something to do with the fact that Maria is French.

In the morning I strolled to the thermal swimming pool just behind the bar. Steam was rising from it. I only had my phone with me.

Later I went back with my camera but the steam had gone and happy campers were enjoying a swim.

I turned around to see the creek disappearing into a Meleleuca forest.

 After breakfast we were taken on a tour of the station. We stopped at Monarch Rock to seek out aboriginal paintings from thousands of years ago. 

 After a picnic lunch we went to the Cascades for a swim. 

 Then we returned to the accommodation and spent a relaxing afternoon in the pool and at the bar. A 4WD drove down the driveway and lifted the dust into the setting sun rays.

Lorella springs was like a little bit of paradise in the middle of the great outback. I could have stayed longer but the next day we were on our way to the aboriginal community of Ngukurr.